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Lipids, Glorious Lipids: a Guide to Beneficial Oils
Lipids, Glorious Lipids: Part Two
Last month I talked about the stratum corneum and the importance of lipids in maintaining lipid barrier function in the top layer of the epidermis. This lipid barrier keeps water from evaporating on the skin's surface, and is crucial to preventing dehydration. We all know how these cold, wintry days can dry out our skins.
The questions I'd like to raise this time are the obvious ones every researcher is asking. First of all, we must consider if there is any value to incorporating lipids in various types of skin treatment products.
In examining this question we can look at two scenarios. One is that if certain lipids are contained in skin treatment products, these lipids will be incorporated into the intercellular lipid matrix and lipid barrier. Once incorporated they will assist in repairing the matrix and barrier, thus increasing the moisture binding properties of skin leading to reduced moisture loss and improved skin health. The second scenario is that topically applied lipids will remain on the surface and may leave a pleasant, emollient, cosmetically-appealing feel, but no other benefit.
Here are some facts to consider:
One researcher has demonstrated that a mixture of three lipids (cholesterol, palmitic acid and ceramide) repaired the lipid barrier in skin where lipids were intentionally removed by the use of acetone. The symptoms were relieved with linoleic acid applied topically. Indications are that topical application may be beneficial to people with essential fatty acid deficiency syndrome (EFAD).
Other investigators have shown that topically applied lipids can assist in repairing the lipid barrier, if not by directly replacing damaged or lost lipids, then by absorpting into the lipid barrier and exerting their own water barrier properties. The information to date indicates that lipids in cosmetic products exert a beneficial effect upon the lipid matrix of skin, and incorporating lipids in a cosmetic product will enhance that product's ability to moisturize and improve the health of skin.
Whether topically applied lipids actually replace lost lipids or are simply absorbed the outcome remains the same- applying the correct lipids will assist in maintaining the structure of the lipid barrier and improving the health and beauty of the skin.
This positive conclusion begs the question: Which lipids are critical to barrier function that should be part of a "lipid mix"?
The answer to this question is currently under scrutiny-lipid research in the cosmetic field is very new, and we have quite a way to go before we can begin to provide systematic answers.
To make an increasingly long story much too short, here is what we know:
1) The composition of lipids compromising the extracellular matrix are 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol and 15% free fatty acids.
2) Essential fatty acid deficiencies have been identified as resulting in abnormalities in stratum corneum function.
Bearing this in mind I have, for the last year, been investigating the properties of various lipids from natural sources, both plant and animal. My goal is to create the best lipid mix available to help you heal and maintain the all-important lipid barrier. As most of you probably know by now, my decision to incorporate oils from animal as well as plant sources is based on my conviction that the best blend will, of necessity, come from a combination of both sources. A plant/animal mix ensures that you get the needed essential fatty acids in the right ratios. I also recommend that you take a fish or krill oil supplement every day to ensure that you maintain beautiful, glowing skin.
Below are just some of the lipids I have chosen for their beneficial properties:
Sea Buckthorn oil--The major EFAs contained in seabuckthorn oil are oleic and linoleic acids. It also contains the following essential fatty acids: pentadecenoic, palmitoleic, heptadecenoic, linolenic, eicosenoic, eicosadienoic, erucic and nervonic. Among the carotenes found in Seabuckthorn are alfa- and beta-carotenes, lycopene, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, taraxanthin and phytofluin. Tocopherols are primarily vitamin E and gamma-tocopherol. Phytosterols of seabuckthorn oil include beta-sitosterol, beta-amirol and erithrodiol.
Marula oil's high content of palmitic acid creates a protective coating on the surface of the skin. It also has a high concentration of anti-oxidants.
Red raspberry seed oil possesses an exceptionally high proportion of alpha and gamma tocopherols (Vitamin E), vitamin A and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Red raspberry seed oil offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays.
Cranberry seed oil is rich in tocotrienols (vitamin E) and other antioxidants, and possesses a unique balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs not found in other oils.
Emu oil possesses the balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs that is ideal for healing skin and promoting skin, hair and nail growth. It is anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, has a natural SPF, is a natural emollient and moisturizer, penetrates multiple layers of skin, is non-comedogenic, hypo-allergenic, prevents and diminishes scarring/stretch marks and more. It is recommended for use in a variety of skin disorders and allergies.
Pomegranate seed oil is high in lipids including pucinic acid. Its high polyphenol content makes it a strong anti-oxidant, and it contains conjugated fatty acids which gives it strong anti-inflammatory properties.
Krill oil (from a crustacean) contains vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin D and canthaxanthin, which is, like astaxanthin, a potent anti-oxidant. The anti-oxidant potency of krill oil is such that when compared to fish oil in terms of ORAC (Oxygen radical absorptance capacity) values it was found to be 48 times more potent than fish oil.
The astaxanthin found in krill oil provides excellent protection against ultraviolet light and UV-induced skin damage.
About the Author
Marie Veronique-Nadeau is an author, skin care formulator and CEO of Marie-Veronique Skin Therapy where she heads the research department. She is a licensed esthetician with a degree in mathematics and chemistry. Her specialties are rosacea and skin conditions associated with aging. Her holistic approach to skin care is described in her recently published best seller, "The Yoga Facelift".
Texture and color of the skin
Alpha. Beta. Acids, vitamins and derivatives All of these words sound more like stuff in a science experiment than lotions or creams for your skin. Skin care products ingredients alpha, beta, acids, hydroquinone , vitamin c , hyaluronic acid , avocado oil Persia Americana , ceramides, co enzyme Q10 and essential Oils etc. Anionic refers to the negative charge these surfactants have. They may be contaminated with nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. Salicylic acid has been studied for its effect on skin that has aged prematurely due to exposure to ultraviolet rays from the sun.
It exfoliates skin, and can improve the texture and color of the skin. Kojic acid is a more recent remedy for the treatment of pigment problems and age spots. It is effective as a lightening agent, inhibiting production of melanin brown pigment. Surface active agents are substances capable of dissolving oils and holding dirt in suspension so it can be rinsed away with water. They are used in skin cleansers and shampoos which are often claimed to contain natural ingredients. Other skin care retinol. Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, and you will see that a lot of skin care products contain retinal. Retinal is proven to improve mottled pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone and color, and your skins hydration levels.
Vitamin C is the only antioxidant that is proven to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, which is essential since your bodys natural collagen production decreases as you age. Vitamin B6 or pyridoxine deficiency can result in dermatitis or eczema. Glycerin an effective natural moisturizer at low concentrations. Commonly used in skin creams, lotions, skin cleansers. Fruit oils are often used in shower gels and soaps to nourish, invigorate and hydrate the skin and hair. Citrus fruits are popular natural ingredients as they promote skin development. Jojoba skin care is a natural remedy. Jojoba is a natural moisturizer for the skin. The oil is similar to the natural sebum of whale. Usually, it is pressed but can be solvent extracted.
Chemical preservatives are generally used because they are much cheaper than, and extend the shelf life of the product more than natural alternatives. Copper peptide is often referred to as the most effective skin regeneration product. It also promotes production of glycosaminoglycans. Sunflower seeds are expressed to produce this light oil which is high in linoleic acid, Vitamins A, B complex, D, and E, as well as calcium, zinc, potassium, iron, and phosphorus. Wheatgerm Oil has a nutty aroma and is extracted by pressing or solvent extraction from the wheat germ. It is a valuable source of Vitamin E. It helps relieve dermatitis symptoms, promotes skin cell formation, and improves blood circulation. Wheatgerm Oil is used to prevent and reduce scarring and speeds up healing of cuts and wounds.
About the Author
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